Today we dive deep into the nautical watches that have captivated us for many years, the dive watch! The diver has historically lived as a weekend warrior watch, however, in recent years these rugged timekeepers have made a strong case to be true everyday watches that mustn’t be ignored in any collection.
The diver is important to the history of watches both past and present. We are aiming to outline what makes up a dive watch, a brief history, and provide some great picks at under $1,000.
For more picks in the $1,000+ price range check out part II here.
History
- In 1926 Rolex purchased a patent for a screw down crown mechanism that allowed the company to produce their famed Oyster watch case with an airtight seal.
- In 1927 English swimmer, Mercedes Gleitze set out to swim across the English channel with that same Rolex Oyster around her neck. While Gleitze was not successful the watch remained sealed, unharmed and keeping perfect time!
- In 1932 Omega released the world’s first commercial focused diving watch with a patented doubled sealed case and a water resistance rating of 135m (443ft).
- In 1936 the Royal Italian Navy commissioned Italian watchmaker Panerai to create a luminous water resistant watch for their divers, this watch featured the first iteration of the california dial.
- In 1953 Blancpain released their Fifty Fathoms which proved to be the iconic modern diver design that is common today with a notched unidirectional rotating bezel, dark watch face and luminous indices. The Fifty Fathoms was so well received it became standard for naval forces across the globe.
- In 1967 Rolex released their Sea-Dweller which boasted an astounding 610m (2,000ft) of water resistance along with a helium escape valve that allowed the watch to survive while saturation diving.
- in 1996 the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) outlined the current 6425 dive watch standard outlining the features that were required on every dive watch, this is the current standard still used today. The ISO 6425 outlines the following criteria must be met to be considered a true diver;
- Water resistance up to 100 meters
- Unidirectional rotating bezel with markings every 5 minutes (at a minimum)
- A dial that is visible in total darkness – typically through the use of luminous markers, hands and the presence of a running seconds hand with a luminous tip or tail
- Anti-magnetic
- Anti-shock
- Resistance to corrosion in sea water
Buying Guide
Now that we have all of the boring stuff out of the way we can get to the buying guide! We will cover 3 watches from the following price categories, use our quick links to jump around!
Entry Level
Entry level watches aim to pack as much value as possible into their product while remaining at a price point that is palatable to any consumer. The price point we are covering here is under $500 featuring two watchmaking juggernauts and a newer micro brand who all offer a ton of value at this price point.
Citizen Promaster Automatic
What’s the brand?
Founded in Tokyo just after the conclusion of WWI, Citizen made its name by offering affordable watches to a market that was starved for an alternative to the traditional Swiss luxury watch. Citizen has remained committed to their humble beginnings and continues offering great value for consumers all around the globe.
Why is it cool?
The Promaster will be a lot like a first car, definitely not the prettiest but sure to get from point A to B collecting many memories along the way. The watch is built to last with stainless steel construction, a workhorse automatic movement and great lume. With Citizen being of one the largest and most trusted watch manufacturers in the world it’s hard to go wrong with this watch.
How much will it cost?
The Citizen Promaster Automatic can be had for $200-$225
Orient Kamasu
What’s the brand?
Orient was founded in 1950 and has a rich history in manufacturing high quality watches at affordable price points similar to its Japanese counterparts. Interestingly enough today, Orient is owned by the same holding company as Seiko, however, the two brands are very much operated separately. Today Orient has an expansive catalogue of offerings all of which provide immense value for the price.
Why is it cool?
The Kamasu easily offers the most value per dollar of any watch on this list. Through its beautiful case proportions, sapphire crystal, 120 click rotating bezel, Orient in-house movement and strong lume the Kamasu can easily be featured in $500+ category. For under $250 the Kamasu is an absolute steal!
How much will it cost?
This Orient Kamasu can be had for around $200 – $250
Lorier Neptune Series III
What’s the brand?
Based in New York this up and coming brand is owned and operated by a dynamic husband and wife duo. Lorier aims to provide financially accessible mechanical watches that can look great in every environment. The brand has gained quite the following which is highlighted by the speed in which their products sell out! The brand offers a ton of value and is truly one to watch in the microbrand space.
Why is it cool?
The Neptune is vintage inspired design at its finest through its domed plexiglass crystal, aluminum bezel and HUGE crown. The watch employs a subtle enough look that it could be worn with either a wet suit or a three piece suit. The Neptune is so well regarded that it can often be tough to purchase as these watches are constantly in backorder. Trust us when we say it’s well worth the wait!
How much will it cost?
The Lorier Neptune Series III can be had for$499
Entry Level Luxury
Entry level luxury can represent both the beginning of one’s passion for watches through a first timepiece or the end of a collecting journey. The entry level luxury category represents an approachable value packed price point between $500-$1,000 and can be a perfect spot for collectors of any ilk. Our picks for this section are from all over the world featuring one Japanese, one French and one Canadian manufacturer.
Seiko SRPE07 "King Turtle"
What’s the brand?
Seiko was founded 1880 as a retail store before transforming into the watch making powerhouse we know and love today. The brand has tremendous offerings at nearly every price point through the Seiko, Grand Seiko & Credor brands. Today Seiko remains as committed as ever in their pursuit of continued innovation in watchmaking due to the countless number of advancements they are known for.
Why is it cool?
Nicknamed the “King Turtle” as a result of the turtle shell case shape and king for its the premium features. This watch is one that definitely feels more expensive than it is. The King Turtle features a ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal (with a cyclops), and an amazing Seiko 4R36 movement inside, offering the reliability that is expected with any Seiko. Side note – The King Turtle also comes in a killer waffle dial in both black and forest green.
How much will it cost?
The King Turtle can be had for $535-$635 these watches have been known to dip below $500
Yema Navygraf Heritage
What’s the brand?
Yema is a watchmaker that comes to us from Besançon France, a city very close the Swiss border. While the brand is not normally a household name they have been around since 1948 producing purpose built watches that have accomplished much in diving, arctic exploration, driving and space exploration. Today Yema focuses on the classics with most of their lines revolving around reissues and with watches this pretty…you’ve got to give the people what they want!
Why is it cool?
The Navygraf is the perfect combination of vintage design with modern finishings. This quirky 70’s inspired diver with its with yellow hands and orangey indices features a sapphire bezel and crystal along with Yema’s own inhouse movement. The Navygraf would be the perfectly suited to any sized wrist with its forgiving 39mm diameter.
How much will it cost?
The Yema Navygraf can be had for $749
Marathon GSAR Automatic
What’s the brand?
Marathon was founded in 1904 as Weinsturm Watch before changing it Marathon Watch Company in 1941. Marathon is the first Canadian manufacturer we’ve covered, however the company watches are assembled in Switzerland in order to gain their “Swiss Made” stamp on the watches face. Marathon is not a mainstream brand as their strategy has been to earn contracts supplying the armed forces of the USA, Canada, Britain & Israel, only recently have they have begun focusing on retail customers. These watches are overengineered tools…in a good way!
Why is it cool?
GSAR stands for “Government Search and Rescue” and today this watch is used in both the Canadian and USA’s coast guards along with highly trained search and rescue teams. The GSAR has individual tubes filled with tritium in the hour markers and hands to ensure the watches visibility in any environment. This watch marries Swiss craftsmanship with military grade toughness to create a beast of a watch.
How much will it cost?
The Marathon GSAR can be had for $960
Disclaimers
Knowing how to change a watch strap is an absolute must! Check out our how to change a strap guide here
Watch prices can vary from time to time. We’ve done our best to track down some of the entry level watches on Amazon, the links below are part of their affiliate marketing program.