Welcome back to part II of our dive watch buying guide! This post focuses on a higher price point of $1,000 and up and focuses on some of the heaviest hitters in the category of dive watches.
Below are the categories we are covering, please use the quick links to jump around;
Affordable Luxury ($1,000 – $5,000)
Mid-Range Luxury ($5,000 – $10,000)
High-End Luxury ($10,000 and Up)
Bonus Picks (Honorable Mentions)
In case you missed part I check out a brief history of the dive watch and our picks under $1,000 here.
Now let’s dive into our picks!
Affordable Luxury
Affordable luxury represents a category that is able to offer plenty of value at this reasonable price point. This category has gained increased competition in last few years through the emergence of microbrands entering the market along with experienced watchmakers targeting this market due to its increasing market size. With a price point of $1,000-$5,000 our picks represent three watches from Switzerland with two being from the same manufacturer.
DOXA Sub 300T
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1889 DOXA like many other brands worked its way from manufacturing pocket watches and dash clocks before entering the world of wristwatches. While the company did have a solid reputation for creating quality watches the brand found their niche when they turned their attention to divers in the 1960’s. DOXA worked from the ground up to provide a purpose built dive watch featuring a dial that is instantly recognizable by its orange, two seperate bezel scales and a cushion shaped case. While DOXA has gone through some controversial ownership changes over the last few years, there is still no arguing with their ability to make great divers.
Why is it cool?
Not only does this watch come with the DOXA aesthetic beloved by many but this watch was actually the first diver with a helium escape valve that was offered to the retail consumer. The 300T is a legend for its exceptional build quality and uncompromising functionality, so much so that it was often the choice of famed diver & oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. While this watch may not be for everyone it is hard to deny how cool it actually is.
How much will it cost?
The DOXA Sub 300T can be had on the beads of rice bracelet for $1,890
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1946 as a sister brand of Rolex, Tudor sported similar designs at a more attainable price points through the use of third party movements. Interestingly enough older Tudor watches were actually constructed with Rolex branded crowns, bracelets, cases and case backs and can still be seen on vintage watches today. In 1996 Tudor took a hiatus from the North American market before returning in 2013 with a vengeance with the release of its beloved Black Bay line. Today Tudor stands on their own as a major player in the watch industry which is why they have 2 watches on this list!
Why is it cool?
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight burst on to the scene in 2018 bucking the trend of bigger watches with its forgiving 39mm case size and its vintage inspired goodness. This watch joined the Black Bay lineup of watches and featured a brand new in-house movement from Tudor boasting an impressive 70 hour power reserve. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight was only released in 2018 and was without a doubt an instant classic.
How much will it cost?
This Black Bay Fifty-Eight can be had on a bracelet for $3,700
Tudor Pelagos
Learn more about the brand here
Why is it cool?
If the Black Bay Fifty-Eight is the Michael Jordan in Tudor’s lineup that makes the Pelagos its Scotty Pippen. The Pelagos can sometimes live in the shadow of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight due to its overwhelming popularity when the reality is that this watch is a star in its own right and could lead its own team.
The Pelagos uses a Tudor developed in-house automatic movement with a 70 hour power reserve similar to the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, however, it adds water resistance of 500m and a helium escape valve for saturation diving…if that is your sort of thing.
Finally the Pelagos really separates itself with an entirely titanium bezel, case and bracelet which makes this otherwise hefty watch feel much lighter and more comfy on the wrist.
The Pelagos is truly an incredible watch and should not be ignored – it would be tough to find another watch that delivers this much for under $5,000!
How much will it cost?
The Pelagos can be had on a bracelet for $4,575
Mid-Range Luxury
Mid-range luxury represents a category of watches with unquestioned quality from the storied brands we all know and love. The price point is $5,000-$10,000 and acts as a sweet spot anyone looking to add some heat to their collection! These watches are all icons with two of these watches being featured on the wrist of James Bond.
Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1848, Omega is one of the largest and most respected watchmakers on this list. Omega is a watchmaking powerhouse well known for its exceptional movements and timeless designs. Today Omega’s offerings are made up of 5 distinct lines across sport and dress. The company relies heavily on their iconic designs while continuing to push the limits by implementing new technologies and materials into their watches.
Why is it cool?
While the Seamaster gains a lot of its “street cred” for being on wrist of James Bond since 1995 it is objectively an amazing watch packed full of premium features from its wave dial, in-house movement (with a display case back) and incredible lume. The Seamaster also has the honor of being the longest running product line in Omega’s collection which was first introduced in 1948. Today the vintage Seamasters are often worn as dress watches due to their small cases which really shows how far this watch has come!
How much will it cost?
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300 can be had on a bracelet $5,200
Rolex Submariner
What’s the brand?
The brand that needs no introduction…Rolex. Since their founding in 1900 Rolex has committed to producing the most reliable and refined watches on the market and have amassed quite the following as a result. Today Rolex has one of the most valuable brands in the world and owning one is very much a sign of success in the public eye. While some would argue that there is better value found elsewhere, it is impossible to argue they produce some killer watches.
Why is it cool?
Arguably the most iconic watch in existence today the Submariner is the cool kid in school that everyone looks up to and tries to emulate. The submariner has deep military roots and comes from the most storied watch manufacturer in Rolex. The ownership of this watch is recognized as the symbol of success or achievement in many cultures today. The Submariner is one of the most highly coveted and collectable watch there is, being one of the only watches on this list that will increase in value the longer its owned. To top it off Submariner is the original Bond watch…enough said.
How much will it cost?
The Rolex Submariner it can be had for $8,100
Panerai Submersible PAM00683
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1850 as a small workshop in Italy with the goal of providing the military with various measuring instruments. In 1930’s and 1940’s the company entered into watchmaking, sourcing their parts from many different manufacturers, most notably Rolex. Panerai stayed in business by exclusively producing wrist watches for the Italian navy before these contracts began to dry up in the 1970’s. In 1993 the brand was relaunched and for the first time sold their watches to the general public. Due to the unique history and designs the brand flourished and has a strong community of Panerai enthusiasts who like to refer to themselves as “Paneristi”.
Why is it cool?
As a descendent of Panerai’s deep Naval roots the Submersible takes the unforgiving Panerai aesthetic adds a few much welcomed features in the form of an in-house movement, ceramic bezel and smaller case size of 42mm making this watch much more accommodating to the majority of wrists. This watch pops with its matte black bezel and face while still staying true to Panerai’s steampunk design.
How much will it cost?
The PAM00683 can be had for $9,800
High End Luxury
High end luxury is by far the trickiest category at $10,000 and up watches in this price range are fewer and far between as it becomes tough to spend this amount of money on a watch that is meant to take a beating! Watches in this category are just as much works of art as they are functional tools. Our picks include one German manufacturer and two Swiss manufacturers.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date
What’s the brand?
Named after the famed German watchmakers paradise of Glashütte, Germany this company has been around for over 150 years. While Glashütte manufactured watches for quite some time before they really came into their own in the 1990’s due to their highly complicated watches. Their watches offer unique dial variations similar to their neighbours at A. Lange & Söhne at a more palatable price point. Today the company continues to produce watches of the highest quality with their German heritage at its core.
Why is it cool?
As the first real attempt at a dive watch for the brand, Glashütte absolutely knocks it out of the park. The SeaQ’s attention to detail is tremendous through its large date function at 4 o’clock, exhibition case back, deep blue ceramic bezel and a dial – this is a watch that photos can’t do justice. The SeaQ takes all of the traditional elements of a diver and elevates them to a level that is hard to match.
How much will it cost?
The SeaQ Panorama Date can be had for $11,500
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1735, Blancpain produced high quality watches and tools with their most notable achievement being the invention the modern dive watch in the early 1950’s. Blancpain went on to supply many Naval forces across the world for the better part of the 50’s and 60’s before falling on hard times during the quartz crisis of the 70’s forcing them to shut their doors. In 1983 the brand was resurrected by watch icon Jean-Claude Biver with the goal of updating their historic lineup of watches with innovative materials which has proven to be a smashing success. Fun fact – to this date Blancpain has never released a quartz powered watch!
Why is it cool?
Because it’s the OG dive watch! The Fifty Fathoms is very much the blueprint for what a diver is today and it set the foundation for all dive watches when it was released 1953. The Fifty Fathoms uses its original design ques in its thick sapphire bezel and bolded markers while adding modern touches of a titanium case and an astounding 120 hours of power reserve. When it comes to coolest divers this one must be in the conversation.
How much will it cost?
The Fifty Fathoms can be had for $18,300
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver
What’s the brand?
Audemars Piguet (AP) was founded in 1875 and from the onset they produced clocks of the highest quality while always pushing the limits in terms of innovation which ultimately translated into their watchmaking. AP’s watchmaking chops are so widely regarded they currently sit among peers Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin in what is known as the “holy trinity” of watchmaking. Today AP remains an independent manufacturer focusing on the ultra-luxury market while staying committed to producing the best and most innovative wristwatches.
Why is it cool?
The Offshore Diver is a direct descendent from AP’s historic Royal Oak lineup of watches. This hyper luxury is just as much a work of art as functional tool through internal rotating bezel, ceramic crowns and iconic case shape. This is a watch for those who like to stand out and can often be found on wrist of celebrities and athletes alike!
How much will it cost?
The Royal Oak Offshore Diver can be had for $19,000-$19,900
Bonus Picks!
When looking at putting this list together there were a couple additional picks that just didn’t quite fit but are too special to be ignored! Both of these watches were released in the late 60’s to early 70’s with the commercial diver in mind, which explains their hefty construction. Our picks feature a two brands we’ve covered in this post both of which a powerhouses in the world of watches.
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea
Learn more about the brand here
Why is it cool?
Originally released in 1967 the Sea-Dweller was the world’s first answer to deep sea saturation diving through its unique helium escape valve and insane 610 meters of water resistance!
In 2008 Rolex took its iconic Sea-Dweller pumped it full of Compound V and released the Deepsea with its helium escape valve, beefed up case, and a whopping 3,900 meters of water resistance! This is arguably the best technical dive watch in existence today through its many innovations and remains a nice reminder as to why Rolex is king.
Didn’t think it could get any cooler? Think again! The Deepsea actually accompanied famed movie director James Cameron to the Mariana’s Trench in 2012 aboard his solo submarine called Deepsea Challenger.
How much will it cost?
This watch can be had on an Oystersteel bracelet for $12,900
Omega Seamaster Professional 1200M (Ploprof)
Learn more about the brand here
Why is it cool?
Omega’s entrance into the deep sea exploration race came in 1970 through its release of this behemoth of a watch call the Ploprof. “Ploprof” actually stands for Plongeurs Professionels meaning professional diver is French.
After Rolex took over as the choice for professional divers due to its helium escape valve. Omega’s took a completely different approach of “if no gas gets in, what is the need for an escape valve?” This very thinking is what lead to its crazy case shape. When the Ploprof was released its seal was as air tight as a NASA space ship ready for launch!
Today the Ploprof does utilize the helium escape valve and features one of Omega’s stellar movements inside. It also comes in a titanium version to make wearing this thing feel less like arm day at the gym!
How much will it cost?
The Ploprof can be had on a bracelet $9,700