Today we look at a very special piece for review in the GMT-Master reference 1675 from 1972. This watch has a storied history that dates back to 1954 when Pan-Am airlines asked Rolex to make a watch capable of tracking multiple time zones to serve their pilots when completing transatlantic flights. Rolex obliged, responding with the GMT-Master, equipped with an independent hour hand and bi-directional bezel – perfect for pilots needing to track multiple time zones. 60+ years and many tweaks later this watch is still extremely popular among enthusiasts and remains one of Rolex’s most popular models.
For the sake of organization we are looking at 5 criteria that should provide a comprehensive overview of the watch and aid anyone who is considering adding it to their collection. Use our quick links below to help navigate;
History of the 1675
The Rolex GMT-Master reference 1675 was the second iteration of the famed line with a production run spanning from 1959 all the way to 1980. The 1675 replaced the original reference 6542 most known for its unique bakelight bezel inserts, lack of crown guards and for its appearance on the wrist of Pussy Galore in the 1964 James Bond movie Goldfinger. Funny enough the name Pussy Galore stuck and is now what the reference 6542 is referred to as by collectors.
Today, the reference 1675 is easily one of the most collectable Rolex models due the sheer number of tweaks and changes over its 21 year run. While the watch saw only one movement upgrade in 1965 from the 1565 to the 1575, adding a higher movement frequency and hacking seconds (in 1971), there are almost too many aesthetic changes to mention. From different dial variations, handsets, bezel inserts, case materials and bracelet configurations it is easy to get lost in the rabbit hole that is the 1675.
In 1980, the 1675 ended its production run when it was replaced by a transitional 16750. The 16750 featured an upgraded 3075 movement which gave the watch a quickset date function and a higher movement frequency than the previous model. Other notable changes included an increased water resistance of 100M and new hand placement ordering, with the red GMT hand now between the hour and minute hands instead of on the bottom. Fun fact about the 16750! It was actually worn by the one and only Tom Selleck in Magnum PI – in our humble opinion this is the pinnacle of mustache to watch ratio – never to be topped again!
Case & Bracelet
The watch is able to adapt to virtually any wrist due on its modern 40mm diameter and 13mm thickness. At the GMT-Master’s release it was quite uncommon for watches to surpass 36mm, however, the dimensions makes the watch very comfortable to wear today. The case itself is none other than the iconic Rolex Oyster Perpetual that we’ve come to love and features flat crown guards along with much welcomed lug holes for those pain free strap changes.
The 1675 was known to come on both the sporty Oyster bracelet and the classic sophisticated Jubilee, both offering a different look to the watch. The model we’re looking at sports a period correct 7836 Oyster bracelet accompanied by 280 end links. The bracelet definitely has some signs of stretch and rattles while on the wrist – while these might sound like slights against the watch, the fact that this is a 50 year old bracelet and is still one of the more comfortable around is quite the feat!
Finally, the aluminum bi-directional bezel on this watch has aged like a fine wine with an even fade that pictures can’t do justice! After wearing this watch for some time it is hard not to get lost in the iconic “pepsi” blue and red bezel.
Dial
This example of the GMT-Master 1675 has a beautiful matte dial that is highly legible and does not reflect any light it might catch. Staying true to the Rolex aesthetic the GMT has the company logo, crown and Oyster Perpetual text below 12 followed by the model and chronometer certification above the 6. Below the 6 o’clock marker the dial reads Swiss–T<25 meaning that the luminous material used was Tritium, a radioactive paint that used by Rolex from 1960 to 1998. This watches days of glowing hour markers and hands are well behind it which is more than okay as they’ve been replaced by a magnificent orangey brown patina giving the watch some character… kind of an “I’ve seen some s***” type look.
The handset is what you’d expect through the use of the mercedes hour hand, sword minutes hand, lollipop second hand and the classic red GMT hour hand. Being a later example of the 1675, the GMT hand has a large triangle at the bottom vs. a smaller triangle used in earlier examples.
To top it all off, this vintage beauty can be seen through the domed acrylic crystal that adds even more charm and character!
Movement
With a robust Rolex caliber 1575 movement powering the watch it benefits from an impressive 48 hour power reserve and the reliability we’ve come to expect with a Rolex watch. One possible gripe some may have with this watch (and all vintage watches in general) is that you can really hear the watch tick and wind…personally we think the hum of this watch is pleasant and provides even more character to the piece but should be noted nonetheless.
Wearability
While this watch could in fact become a strap monster in its own right, it feels almost wrong to remove the charming vintage oyster bracelet as the combo is just too good. The 1675 wears like a dream with near perfect dimensions and classic design, it’s one of those watches that never looks out of place.
While we are talking about a stainless steel Rolex…and technically the GMT could still take a beating, the watch is at an age where its days of adventure are behind it. Think of the 1675 as your cool grandfather who’s got some pretty wild stories back in his day…while you love hanging out with your grandfather, the time spent together is limited to going on walks, drives or sitting down for a drink and as much as he might want to, the two of you aren’t planning to go jumping out of a plane anytime soon!
Verdict
The GMT-Master is truly a treasure and after spending sometime with it, the 1675 lives up to the hype and then some. There are no doubt some vintage quirks that come with a watch this age, such as the rattle of the bracelet and movement or the potential cost to get it fixed. All in its perfect proportions, faded bezel and dark patina lume plots make it a stunner, far outweighing any quirks it may have.
The 1972 GMT-Master reference 1675 gets a solid 12 patina’d lume plots out of 12…this one is going to hurt to give back to its owner. Just look at this work of art!
Case: 40mm