Welcome to our first installment of watchmakers around the world, where we take a closer look at the most notable watch houses each in each country and share our picks for some brands that should not be missed!
While not the obvious first choice *cough* Switzerland *cough* German watches have been on rise since the early 1990’s with the emergence of both new and storied brands. In Germany part I we will take a look at 5 of our picks…if we’ve missed any don’t worry part II is on the way!
#1. NOMOS Glashütte
Like many on this list NOMOS reigns from the Glashütte region in Germany, the brand was founded in 1907, however, due to some legal battles the company was forced to close their doors. The NOMOS we know and love today was “re-founded” in 1990 by photographer Roland Schwertner who still remains firmly behind the wheel today.
For many years NOMOS used off the shelf Swiss made ETA movements to power their watches, before they released their fully in-house alpha movements in 2005. NOMOS has continued to work at the alpha movement and now has a respectable 10+ calibers in their offering. NOMOS manufacturers many of their own components making these watches about as “in-house” as possible…in other words they are about as German as they come!
NOMOS watches are well known for their clean minimalistic Bauhaus designs that rarely look out of place, their timepieces match any outfit from jeans and a t-shirt to a tuxedo with tails. NOMOS does a great job accommodating all wrist sizes by offering a wide variety of case sizes. For these reasons the brand does not assign gender to their watches, if you like the style and size that’s all that matters – how progressive!
Year founded: 1990
Founder: Roland Schwertner
Our picks: Tangente, Orion, Club
Price range: $1,500 – $25,000 (Most coming in under $5,000)
Who we see wearing one: Young professionals, University/College students, people who like a minimalist aesthetic (apple fanboy types)
Learn more here
#2. A. Lange & Söhne
Lange has a very unique history being founded in 1868 in the Glashütte region of Germany. The brand’s founder Adolf Lange, trained many residents in the art of manufacturing watch components. Not only was was Lange responsible for providing many people with stable jobs but he was able to secure a robust supply chain for this German manufacturer.
The brand was handed down from Lange to his 3 sons in 1875 who would pass the brand down once more in 1919 to one of Adolf Lange’s grandsons. In 1946 the East German government took control of the business declaring that the Lange’s were Nazi’s, which made them war criminals. The Lange’s adamantly denied these claims and fled Germany as they were no longer in control of their business, the business shut down shortly after. In 1990 after Germany was reunited, Walter Lange (Adolf’s great-grandchild) returned to Glashütte where he officially re-founded the brand.
Today Lange is the top dog in the German watchmaking scene with engineering, innovation and superior quality at the forefront of their watches! Lange watches are so widely regarded that many people believe they are superior quality to the Swiss manufacturers. Just know these watches don’t come cheap…or easy to purchase!
Year Founded: 1845 (Refunded in 1990)
Founder: Adolf Lange
Our Picks: Lange 1, Datograph, Zeitwerk
Price Range: $16,000 – $2,600,000 (Most coming in under $100,000)
Who we see wearing one: A seasoned collector, C-level executives
Learn more here
#3. Glashütte Original
The mid 1800’s brought many watchmakers to the region of Glashütte starting the German watch boom. It took very little time for this small town to give the Swiss a run for their money in terms of the quality of their timepieces. Unfortunately, the conclusion of WWII left German watchmaking in rough shape due to the damage the war had caused to numerous factories and workshops across the country. Instead of giving up on their watchmaking progress the German Democratic Republic (GDR) decided to combine all remaining watch manufacturers into one state owned company named GUB.
Today Glashütte Original (GO) is the successor to the GUB brand and holds many designs from its German forefathers (A. Lange & Söhne included). The company produces nearly every component in its manufacturing facility which is very impressive in today’s watchmaking landscape. GO offers 5 distinct product lines all provide something different, one thing is for sure, the craftsmanship, timeless designs and finishing will never be questioned.
Year founded: 1994
Founder: VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe
Our picks: SeaQ, Pano, Senator
Price range: $3,500 – $45,000
Who we see wearing one: A person who wants a Lange on a budget
Learn more here
#4. Mont Blanc
While today Montblanc is a Swiss watch manufacturer this was not always the case as the company was founded in Hamburg, Germany. Montblanc has been around since 1906, primarily making a name for itself producing high quality writing instruments and leather goods.
It was not until 1997 when Montblanc released its first watch, named the Meisterstück. While many consumers were skeptical of the move, Montblanc relied on their craftsmanship and parent company (The Richemont Group) for expertise and it payed off. In 2006, Montblanc acquired the storied Minerva watch factory, enabling them to create some of the most complicated watches in the market. Needless to say the brands short stint in the world of watches has been quite impressive, building a respectable lineup in such a short period of time.
Year founded: 1906
Founder: Alfred Nehemias & August Eberstein
Our picks: 1858 Monopusher, Orbis Terrarum, Heritage Automatic
Price range: $1,000 – $90,000 (Most coming in under $10,000)
Who we see wearing one: Dapper gentleman/woman, socialites
Learn more here
#5. Sinn Spezialuhren
Our last and most badass brand in part I was founded in the early 60’s, by pilot & flight instructor Helmut Sinn. Sinn’s goal was to create timekeeping instruments for professional pilots and divers…evidently this can be seen by just looking at one their watches.
Sinn is a brand that is always looking to push the ruggedness of their watches to the next level. Noted innovations, Tegimented hardened cases, lubrication free escapements and reflection free diving dials. Today the company is located in Frankfurt with the same goals in mind – to create the best tool watches possible.
Sinn’s don’t just talk the talk…they walk the walk, holding their own below sea level, in flight, on the wrists of the military, strapped to crash test dummies and even on the moon!
Year founded: 1961
Founder: Helmut Sinn
Our picks: U1, 104, 556
Price range: $900 – $6,500
Who we see wearing one: EDC fanatic, current/ex-military (or military buff)
Learn more here