Gérald Genta is by no means a household name, however to most watch enthusiasts the man is an absolute legend who will have an everlasting impression on watch design. To put things into perspective for the casual watch lover here goes a long winded reference that is sure not to payoff!
Think of Gérald Genta as the early 2000’s equivalent to Timbaland! Confused? Yeah we would be too if it wasn’t our analogy…let us explain! Gérald Genta is an artistic genius that moved from watch company to watch company designing hits that are ultimately responsible for the success of some of the major players we know and love today including AP, Patek Philippe, Cartier, IWC and many more. Is the reference becoming clearer? If not…early 2000’s Timbaland is also an artistic genius who moved around collaborating with different artists releasing banger after banger with the likes of Madonna, Justin Timberlake, Missy Elliot and our favorite Canadian pop sensation Nelly Furtado, helping all of them reach new levels of success.
Who is Gérald Genta
Born 1931 in the watchmaking capitol of the world Geneva, Switzerland, Genta grew up with a half Swiss and half Italian family. Genta had an eye for design, taking up painting and drawing at a young age which led to his first job at 15 as an apprentice jeweler and designer. Genta sketched and sold his own jewelry designs while his love for watches remained a hobby. In his early 20’s Genta earned his credentials as a goldsmith and jeweler which enabled him to make his hobby of watch design into a reality.
Genta had his first smash hit at the age of 23 and there was no looking back! Over his illustrious career he worked with all of the top brands including; Universal Genève, Omega, AP, Patek, Cartier, IWC & Bvlgari where he was able to invent the luxury sport watch category that has become insanely popular today. Genta also released several watches under his own namesake brands Gérald Genta (later purchased by Bvlgari) & Gérald Charles. Among his many achievements Genta had the honor of designing unique pieces for the likes of Queen Elizabeth, the King of Saudi Arabia, the Prince of Monaco and many others. Finally, proving that the man was capable of designing any watch, Genta designed watches for the Walt Disney Company in the 80’s and 90’s, needless to say anything with Genta’s name on it is wildly collectable today.
In his personal life, Genta was an avid painter who amassed over 100,000 pieces, comprising of both watch designs and paintings. Genta passed away in 2011 and was survived by his wife Evelyne who was actually the UK ambassador for Monégasque and later became a large influence in Genta’s namesake brands. Today Evelyne runs the Gerald Genta Heritage Association foundation with her daughter Alexia that aims to pay tribute to Gérald himself along with encouraging and rewarding young and upcoming talent.
Genta was said to have a larger than life personality and an ego to match which enabled him to always push the status quo and led to his overwhelming successes. While there are hundreds of watches to choose from, let’s take a look at 4 of our favorites that defined Genta’s legacy and remain popular today.
Universal Genève Polerouter
At the age of 23 years old Genta was recruited by the popular watch manufacturer Universal Genève to design a watch commemorating the successful polar flights completed by the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) between Copenhagen and Los Angeles. Young and eager Genta did not disappoint creating an instant classic in the SAS Polerouter, a watch that’s legacy has outlived the brand itself. While Universal Genève remains a shell of themselves today, the Polerouter stands on its own as an icon in the watch community through its Art Deco sector dial that ages like a fine wine!
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
In 1970 Genta was approached by a struggling Audemars Piguet to help the company design a watch in the hopes of reinvigorating the brand and avoiding its imminent closure. What happened next was beyond AP’s wildest dreams with Genta churning out one of the most iconic watches ever created in the Royal Oak. Showing his true creativity the design was actually inspired by a vintage diving helmet, hence the exposed screws in the bezel matching how a helmet would be attached to a divers suit. While the watch is inspired by a divers helmet, Genta confirmed the watch derives its name from a series of eight HMS Royal Oak battleships from the Royal Navy.
Through the Royal Oak’s stainless steel design and bracelet integrated to the case, Genta singlehandedly created the luxury sports watch category while saving Audemars Piguet from closing. Today the luxury sports watch category is both one of the most competitive and popular among collectors. Over 50 years later, the Royal Oak remains as AP’s flagship watch and a leader in the luxury sports watch category. This watch took Genta only one night to sketch…pretty wild huh!?
Patek Philippe Nautilus
In 1976 Genta approached Patek Philippe about a recent watch design with the hopes of recreating his signature magic. Similar to the Royal Oak this new watch was designed with a nautical theme in mind gaining its iconic shape from portholes on the transatlantic ships. Taking the theme one step further, the watch was named the Nautilus after the Captain Nemo’s vessel in Jules Verne’s famous 1870 novel, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Once again, Genta delivered as the Nautilus became the Royal Oak’s only true competition in the luxury sport watch category by utilizing stainless steel, an integrated bracelet and world class finishing.
The Nautilus remains the center piece of Patek’s sports line of watches and is so highly coveted that models are regularly being sold for more than two times their retail cost in the secondary market. To further add to both the Nautilus and Genta’s legacy the story goes that the watch was actually conceptualized in 5 minutes and was sketched on a cocktail napkin while out for dinner.
Bvlgary Octo finisimo
The Octo was released by Bvlgari in 2012 and you may be wondering – how did Genta design a watch after his passing? Is this a ghost watch? While these questions are fair, there is a reasonable explanation for this odd timeline. In 1969 Genta founded his namesake brand Gérald Genta, which designed a wide catalogue of watches ranging from unique pieces for the rich and famous, all the way to Walt Disney themed watches. In 2000 the brand was sold along with its patents and designs to jewelry maker Bvlgari in an attempt for the brand to enter the world of luxury watchmaking.
Buried within Genta’s designs was a unique watch featuring a unique octagonal design with an 8 sided bezel that drew inspiration from the arches of the Maxentius Basilica in the Roman Forum. Bvlgari’s team took Genta’s design, applied a modern touch and a boat load of watchmaking expertise to create the cult classic Octo-Finnisimo. While this watch is a beauty, Bvlgari has not rested on its laurels and continues to push the boundaries through its many iterations of the Octo, holding numerous world records for its astounding ultra thin profile and complications.
Other Notable Mentions
Gérald Genta is said to have designed thousands of watches over his amazing life and while we would love to cover them all, there just aren’t enough hours in the day. Instead we’ve included a few more of our favorites below;
