Today we look to take on the racing inspired watches that we all know and love, the chronograph! The chrono can be a staple in any collection providing some versatility through its uniquely sporty design.
Here we are aiming to outline what makes up a chronograph, a brief history, and provide some great picks at under $1,000.
For more picks in the $1,000+ price range check out part II here.
The Foundation
What Makes a Chronograph?
A chronograph is watch complication that gives the wearer an ability to time events through engaging the crown and pushers. These marvels were the original smart watch designed with the users purpose in mind. Today a typical chronograph will have the following elements;
- A crown at 3 o’clock
- A start and stop pusher at 2 o’clock
- A reset and split pusher at 4 o’clock
- Two to three sub dials that will outline the time elapsed along with a seconds sub dial
- A large sweeping seconds hand that looks the same as an ordinary seconds hand
- Some form of scale on the outer portion of the watch face or bezel to further mark time elapsed
History
- In 1816 the first chronograph was invented by Louis Monet to track astrological movements.
- In 1821 the first widely used chronograph was developed by Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec for King Louis XVIII to help the King time his beloved horse races. Up until 2013 Rieussec was believed to have created the first chronograph when Monet’s invention was discovered.
- In 1913 Longines developed what is believed to be the first chronograph wrist watch featuring both timekeeping and chronograph functionality through the watches crown. Prior to this the Chronograph was only found in pocket watches and did not feature timekeeping ability.
- In 1915 Breitling introduced their version of the chronograph which included a separate pusher above the watches crown. Breitling furthered this innovation in 1923 by adding the reset function to a pusher located in the watches crown.
- Finally in 1934 Breitling patented and began manufacturing the chronograph in the form factor we all love today featuring pushers at both 2 o’clock & 4 o’clock.
- In 1962 the Omega Speedmaster, arguably the most famous chronograph ever created was taken to outer space on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra. In 1969 the Speedmaster made its debut on the moon on the wrists of Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin.
- in 1969 Seiko, Zenith & an all-star team of watchmakers (Breitling, Hamilton-Buren, Heuer & Dubois-Depraz) each released their own version of the automatic chronograph. It is still widely contested who was first to market as there is a solid case to be made for all three.
Buying Guide
Now that we have all of the boring stuff out of the way we can get to the buying guide! We will cover 3 watches from the following price categories, use our quick links to jump around!
Entry Level
Entry level watches aim to pack as much value as possible into their product while remaining at a price point that is palatable to any consumer. The price point we are covering here is under $250 featuring two watchmaking juggernauts and a newer micro brand who all offer a ton of value at this price point.
Timex Weekender
What’s the brand?
Timex has been a staple of American watchmaking since its founding in 1854. The brand has followed the trajectory of many of its peers, starting with clocks and eventually working its way to wrist watches. Timex watches are known for their affordable price points, stylish designs and quality products. Today the brand has a respectable lineup featuring everything from digital beaters to manual wound dress watches.
Why is it cool?
The appeal of the the Timex Weekender is in its name! It is a weekend warrior of a watch, capable on thriving in any environment with its simple design. The Weekender comes with Timex’ own Indiglo feature which illuminates the dial with a push of the crown for legibility 24-7.
How much will it cost?
This Timex Weekender can be had for around $50 – $60
Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A1
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1946 as a microscope parts manufacturer, Casio was committed to the pursuit of electrical innovation. The brand’s first breakthrough was the creation of Japan’s first electronic calculator! In the 70’s the brand shifted some of its attention to creating futuristic wristwatches which gained wild popularity. These offerings were seen on the wrist’s of Marty Mcfly in the 1985 release of Back to the Future in the form of the infamous calculator watch and a G-Shock on wrist of Tom Cruise’ wrist in 2006 release of Mission Impossible III.
Why is it cool?
G-Shocks have become a favorite among nearly all watch collectors as they are the perfect “set it and forget it” watch due to its rugged and dependable nature. The G-Shock featured here has coined the nickname the “Casioak” as its octagonal bezel matches one that can be found on an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. While there are many G-Shocks to choose from this one is our pick!
How much will it cost?
This G-Shock Casioak can be had on sale for under $250
Dan Henry 1936
What’s the brand?
One of the newest and most interesting brands on this list is Dan Henry. The brand’s namesake is a famed watch collector with an expansive collection spanning over 30 years and 1,500 watches! Dan created this brand to pay homage to his favorite watches both in style and in impact. The brand has been creating vintage inspired chronographs since 2016. We recommend checking out Dan’s watch collecting timeline here as it is truly awe inspiring.
Why is it cool?
Being the product of years of watch collecting the 1963 has a refined retro aviator aesthetic featuring a reverse panda dial! The 1963 comes alongside a watch roll, leather strap and NATO strap all for under $250!
How much will it cost?
This Dan Henry 1963 can be had for $240
Entry Level Luxury
Entry level luxury is an interesting category as it can represent both the beginning of one’s passion for watches through a first timepiece or the end of a collecting journey. The entry level luxury category represents an approachable price point between $250-$1,000 and can be a perfect spot for anyone looking to jump in. Our picks for this section are from one Chinese, one American and one Japanese manufacturer.
Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph
What’s the brand?
Seagull is a manufacturer reigning from China that is committed to changing the narrative around the phrase “made in China” making it a badge of pride rather than being associated with poor craftsmanship. The brand is actually not known for producing watches but rather the movements inside. Today Seagull is one of the largest movement manufactures around and are very popular in budget friendly watches.
Why is it cool?
The 1963 has a quite a storied history being based upon Seagull’s original 1963 watch that was commissioned by the Chinese government for air force pilots of the People’s Liberation Army. The 1963 impresses further as it houses a mechanical column wheel chronograph for under $400!
How much will it cost?
The Seagull 1963 can be had for $379
Brew Retrograph
What’s the brand?
Brew is a microbrand that was launched in 2015 and has quickly made a name for themselves through unique case designs and color combinations. The company’s designs are inspired by coffee, specifically espresso machines through the use of warm colors, different metal finishing and industrial designs! Brew was founded on the belief of savoring moments as simple as sipping a cup of coffee and it shows.
Why is it cool?
Aside from the beautiful case shape the Retrograph features a meca-quartz movement which provides the accuracy of a quartz and the smooth seconds hand of a mechanical watch. Another notable feature is the accented seconds markers between 6 and 7 as it takes between 25-35 seconds to brew a perfect shot of espresso!
How much will it cost?
The Brew Retrograph can be had for $395
Bulova Lunar Pilot
What’s the brand?
Once know as an American watchmaking powerhouse Bulova has come a long way since its humble beginnings as small jewelry store in New York City. Bulova has a deep roots in US history producing many watches, instruments and mechanisms for the US armed forces in specifically in WWII. Like many other brands Bulova fell upon tough times in the second half of the 20th century and is now owned by Japanese watchmaker Citizen.
Why is it cool?
Often referred to as “the other moon watch” the Lunar Pilot has a rich history in space exploration as it accompanied astronaut David Scott on the historic 1971 Apollo 15 mission to the moon. This was notable as Scott opted for the Lunar Pilot instead of the famed Omega Speedmaster due to Bulova being a US manufacturer. The Bulova is a hyper-accurate watch featuring Bulova’s “High-Performance” movement and is a ton of watch for the price.
How much will it cost?
The Bulova Lunar Pilot can be had for $475 – $650
Disclaimers
Knowing how to change a watch strap is an absolute must! Check out our how to change a strap guide here
Watch prices can vary from time to time. We’ve done our best to track down some of the entry level watches on Amazon, the links below are part of their affiliate marketing program.