Today we look to tackle one of the toughest to answer questions in the world of watches…how to select the one watch that can do it all, that’s right the elusive “one watch collection”. While we all aspire to have a collection covering different brands, styles and price points it is often not a reality as let’s face it, this hobby is expensive.
We are going to outline what to look for in a one watch collection and provide some killer recommendations along the way.
The Foundation
First we need to lay the foundation and set some parameters as to what to look for in the “one watch collection” we’ve narrowed it down to the following;
- The watch tells the time! By this we are looking for an easy to read, legible watch that can function in any environment.
- It has a reliable movement from a tested manufacturer. When looking for that one watch it is imperative that it will last because if it fails there is no backup plan.
- The watch can be dressed up and down fitting seamlessly in any environment. From conquering the boardroom to climbing a mountain this watch should be ready for the occasion, never looking out of place.
- The ability to take a beating (within reason). A resilient stainless steel or similar material case is a must to ensure the longevity of the watch.
- A minimum water resistance of 100 meters. To ensure the watch is ready for every situation it must be able to survive some heavy rain, a swim in the pool or ocean without a care in the world.
We will cover 3 watches from the following price catagories, use our quick links to jump around!
Entry Level Luxury ($250 – $1,000)
Affordable Luxury ($1,000 – $2,500)
Disclaimers
In a “one watch collection” changing the straps is an absolute must! Check out our how to change a strap guide here
Watch prices can vary from time to time. We’ve done our best to track down some of the entry level watches on Amazon, the links below are part of their affiliate marketing program.
Entry Level
Often the gateway drug into the world of mechanical watches the entry level category is a perfect place to start one’s journey. Entry level watches aim to pack as much value as possible into their product while remaining at a price point that is palatable to any customer. The price point we are covering here is under $250 and features three Japanese manufacturers who have mastered the art of providing mass produced reliable watches.
Citizen Eco-Drive AW1620
What’s the brand?
Citizen is a brand that was founded in Tokyo just after the conclusion of WWI. The company offered affordable watches to a market that was looking for an alternative to the traditional Swiss luxury watch. Citizen has stayed true to their humble beginnings and continues offering great value for consumers all around the globe. Citizen specializes in light powered watches with its Eco-Drive movements.
Why is it cool?
This watch has Citizen’s signature Eco-Drive movement which can generate power from any light source making it far superior to traditional solar powered watches. On a full charge this watch can run in a dark place for up to 6 months!
How much will it cost?
This Citizen Eco-Drive AW1620 can be had for $100 – $150
Seiko 5 Sports SNZG13
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1880 as a retail store, the company transformed into a clock maker, then pocket watch maker before starting to manufacture wrist watches at the start of WWI. Seiko is committed to continued innovation in watchmaking and the brand is responsible for many advancements in the world of watches.
Why is it cool?
The 5 in Seiko 5 stands for the five unique features in every watch that is part of the collection, these include;
- Automatic Winding
- Day Display
- Date Display
- Water Resistance
- Shock Resistance
How much will it cost?
This Seiko 5 Sports SNZG13 can be had for $145 – $175
Orient Defender (Generation 1)
What’s the brand?
Orient was founded in 1950 and has a rich history in manufacturing high quality watches at affordable price points similar to Seiko. Interestingly enough today, Orient is owned by the same holding company as Seiko, however, the two brands are very much operated separately.
Why is it cool?
In addition to the versatile field watch vibe this defender gives off, it has both a sub day dial (on the right) and a sub 24 hour dial (on the top left). While this might not be aesthetically pleasing to everyone, there is no denying the watch is jam packed full of value!
How much will it cost?
This Orient Defender can be had for $200 – $250
Entry Level Luxury
Entry level luxury is an interesting category, as it can represent both the beginning of one’s passion for watches through a first timepiece or the end of a collecting journey. The entry level luxury category represents an approachable price point between $250-$1,000 and can be a perfect spot for anyone, whether they looking to dip their toe in water or jump right in. Our picks for this section are from one Japanese manufacturer and two storied Swiss manufacturers.
Seiko SARB035
What’s the brand?
Seiko as stated above is a watchmaking powerhouse known for their ability to produce excellent watches at virtually every price point. Their watches in this price category feature stunning dials, more refined case finishing and better movements.
Why is it cool?
Not only is this a beautiful watch, it actually has its own community of enthusiasts devoted to it. The SARB035 is often referred to as the “baby Grand Seiko” as its quality mimics that of a high end Grand Seiko. The SARB035 was discontinued by Seiko in 2018 to make room for some other watches in the lineup, so if interested…act fast because once supplies are gone, they are GONE.
How much will it cost?
This Seiko SARB035 can be had for $375 – $450
Hamilton Khaki Automatic
What’s the brand?
Hamilton was founded in 1882 in Lancaster, PA and for a long time was at the heart of American watchmaking. The company had deep roots in the USA providing watches for the railroad industry, postal service & the military. In 1969 the company seized their operations in America moving all manufacturing to Switzerland due to poor sales figures amidst the quartz crisis along with changes in ownership. Today Hamilton has cemented themselves as an entry level watch producer with an amazing offering.
Why is it cool?
The Khaki screams cool with it’s Aviation inspired design, in house movement & 80 hours of power reserve – all for under $750!
How much will it cost?
The Hamilton Khaki can be had for $325- $575
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium
What’s the brand?
As displayed clearly on the dial, Tissot was founded in 1853 and since that time has been hard at work creating quality timepieces. Today the brand is widely regarded as a gateway drug into the world of luxury watches as they continue to offer immense value for the money.
Why is it cool?
The Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium has everything you need in a watch, including a reliable Swiss movement, an 80 hour power reserve and a versatile aesthetic. Don’t let its sleek exterior fool you, this watch can take a licking.
How much will it cost?
The Tissot Powermatic can be had for $700 – $800
Affordable Luxury
Affordable luxury represents one of the fastest growing segments on this list through the emergence of micro brands being able to offer plenty of value at this reasonable price point. The $1,000-$2,500 is the sweet spot where the value per dollar is at its highest. Our picks represent two picks from Germany and one Swiss/American watch.
Sinn 556i
What’s the brand?
Sinn comes to us from Germany with over half a century of watchmaking under their belt. Sinn is one of the most bad ass manufacturers around due to tough case treatments and distinct utilitarian designs. It’s no surprise that this manufacturer has a large devoted following. With all of this, Sinn has become an obvious choice as standard issue for multiple departments of Germany’s armed forces.
Why is it cool?
Sinn is known for their TEGIMENT Technology which is a finishing applied to the case and bracelet, significantly increasing the watches hardness. In essence, this watch is built like a tank and is by far the most rugged piece on this list.
How much will it cost?
This watch can be had on bracelet (highly recommended) for $1,380.00
Nomos Glashütte Club Campus
What’s the brand?
Nomos, another German brand hails from the famous Glashütte region. The brand was founded in 1990 just before the fall of the Berlin wall. Nomos is known for it’s simple and clean design cues and is usually seen on the wrists of creatives for this reason. Today Nomos is known as one of the best value for money brands in the game offering many different case size options to fit any wrist!
Why is it cool?
Besides its beautiful simplicity, the Nomos Club Campus has an in-house caliber Alpha movement which is uncommon to see on a watch at this price point.
How much will it cost?
This watch can be had on shell cordovan leather (highly recommended) for $1,650.00 – $1,950.00
Monta Atlas
What’s the brand?
Monta is the newcomer to this list and our only micro brand featured. Monta is based in St. Louis, MO and has all of its watch parts sourced and assembled in Switzerland making it a true Swiss made watch. The brand has gained large popularity over a short period of time due to their incredible craftsmanship, service and continued innovation.
Why is it cool?
There is so much cool with the Atlas we don’t know where to begin! The GMT function, the perfect case size, the insanely comfortable bracelet and that deep blue dial. For those looking to get in on the ground floor of what promises to be a top tier brand, look no further!
How much will it cost?
This watch can be had on bracelet (highly recommended) for $1,950.00
Mid-Range Luxury
Mid-range luxury category represents the largest category with the fiercest of competition in the world of watches. Here is where we get to see the brands we all know and love shine at that $2,500-$10,000 price point. Realistically this is the last price point where that “one watch collection” exists because chances are if a person is willing to spend over $10,000 on watch they are likely going to have more than one. Our three picks in the mid-range luxury category consist of three of the most storied brands in all of watches.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
What’s the brand?
Founded in 1848 Omega is one of the largest and respected watchmakers on this list. The brand is well known for its exceptional movements and design across all of its lines. Currently the brand’s most famous models are its Speedmaster known for being the first watch on the moon and still in use by NASA today and its Seamaster which has been James Bond’s watch of choice as of late.
Why is it cool?
The Aqua Terra features the Omega 8900, which is one of the best movements in existence today and can be seen through the watch’s display case back. The dial is textured to mimic the teak one would find on a yachts floor and to top it off this watch was featured on the wrist of James Bond in the 2012 release of Skyfall.
How much will it cost?
Omega does a great job in providing tons of options, prices can range from $5,400-$5,700
Santos De Cartier
What’s the brand?
Founded by master goldsmith and jeweler Louis-Francis Cartier in 1847 this brand is known for producing everything from tea sets to watches since its founding. While the brand deserves props for their watchmaking prowess the one thing that has always set them apart is their uniquely Cartier designs.
Why is it cool?
Founder Louis Cartier created the Santos in 1904 at the request of dear friend Alberto Santos-Dumont to wear while flying aircrafts. The design cues in the Santos are like no other on this list with it’s bold yet elegant style. Last but certainly not least the accompanying bracelet is a work of art and makes this watch a 10/10 stunner.
How much will it cost?
This watch comes in multiple sizes, colors and designs, it can be had for $6,250 – $7,650
Zenith Defy Classic
What’s the brand?
With over 150 years of watchmaking expertise Zenith is know for their exceptional precision and reliability. The brand’s greatest feat is the creation of the El Primero movement which is considered one of the most important ever created. Today Zenith manufactures watches ranging from from $5,000 to upwards of $150,000!
Why is it cool?
The Defy Classic makes use of alternative materials in its titanium case and bracelet along with its silicon escape-wheel and lever giving the watch the same ruggedness as its stainless steel counterparts, at a far reduced weight.
How much will it cost?
The Zenith Defy Classic can be had on bracelet for $7,200
High End Luxury
High end luxury is by far the trickiest category, let’s face it if someone is going to spend $10,000+ on watch the likelihood of having just one watch is rather low. On another note while the high retail prices of these watches is definitely barrier of entry for most, actually having the money to spend will not be enough to secure one! A person must build up a lucrative relationship with a local authorized dealer (which involves the purchase of multiple watches over a long period of time) OR one must bite the bullet and pay close to double the price on the secondary market. All of this said IF it was possible to get any of these watches at retail they would serve incredibly well in a one watch collection!
Rolex Daytona
What’s the brand?
There are novels written about this illustrious brand, let’s just say they don’t just have the crown for nothing. Rolex has sat as king among the competition since the brand was founded in 1900. Today Rolex has one of the most valuable brands in the world and is very much a sign of success across the world.
Why is it cool?
Gaining its name by way of Rolex announcing its storied partnership with the Daytona 500. This watch is the only chronograph to be featured on this list as the screw down crown and pushers give this watch water 100 meters of resistance. The Daytona derives its coolness from the famous race car driver and actor Paul Newman, as it was routinely his watch of choice.
How much will it cost?
This watch can be had on an oystersteel bracelet for $13,150
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding
What’s the brand?
Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the greatest watch manufactures in the world belonging to the “holy trinity” of watchmaking along side Audemars Piguet and Patek Philipe. Vacheron by far is the most slept on brand in the trinity which can often make it more appealing. The brand has been making high quality watches since its founding in 1755 and holds the title as the longest running watch brand today.
Why is it cool?
The Overseas gains its appeal from nailing every aspect of the wrist watch. The beautiful dial, the flawless case, bracelet and the top notch movement that keeps it ticking are all finished to the absolute highest standard. This is the sort of watch that won’t be recognized by everyone but those who know will understand its true perfection!
How much will it cost?
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding can be had for $19,600.00
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A
What’s the brand?
Patek Philippe is another brand that is part of the “holy trinity” of watchmaking, founded in 1839 and is widely known for its development of watch complications. Patek sits atop the throne as the king among Swiss watchmakers. Vintage Patek watches regularly fetch six digits and up at auction, due to their their high complications and sheer rarity. Today the brand continues to produce watches at the highest quality and it remains an honor to even purchase one.
Why is it cool?
The Aquanaut is the ultimate sports dress watch or in other words the ultimate watch! It features a date function along with a dual time zone through a skeleton hand and home/local time indicators. The aquanaut’s beautiful symmetry and rounded octagonal case shape is unlike any other watch on the market.
How much will it cost?
This Aquanaut 5164A can be had for $35,380.00+
Rolex Submariner no date. Classic. Fits with EVERYTHING.
Model 114060 is what I’ve been wearing for the past 2 years and absolutely love this classic.
I agree with the Submariner suggestion, the Rolex Explorer should have made this list as well.