Small wristed rejoice! They did it…they finally did it!
The new Rolex Explorer 124270 is back at its original size and form factor after an 11 year hiatus. Released in April of 2021, this watch had some seriously big shoes to fill. The Explorer is by no means one of Rolex’s “blue chip” professional watches, however, among collectors and enthusiasts it stands as one of the most beloved pieces for its versatile design and storied heritage.
Let’s see how they did shall we?
We are looking at 5 criteria that should provide a comprehensive overview of the watch and aid anyone who is considering adding it to their collection. Use our quick links below to help navigate;
History of the Rolex Explorer 124270
In case the Rolex media machine has not made it abundantly clear, the Explorer is the first watch to summit Mount Everest accompanying famed adventurers Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay. While this sounds like quite the feat, the reality is that the adventurers did have a Rolex watch with them…just not the Explorer. Along with a Smiths field watch, the two adventurers were equipped with an Oyster Perpetual prototype that would one day lead to the Explorer we know today.
Many people think that its association with Mount Everest gives the Explorer its “cool factor”. Even though the Explorer had very little to do with the expedition, it doesn’t make the watch any less awesome. The Explorer is cool because it was the first! The first tool watch for Rolex to be exact, released in 1959, the Explorer set the tone for the entire Rolex professional lineup of watches and many of Rolex’s competition. The Explorer is and will always be the original tool watch and while there have been many iterations of it, it has always maintained its unassuming look and iconic 3, 6 & 9 applied Arabic numerals on the dial.
Case & Bracelet
It’s a little crazy how visually the Rolex Explorer 124270 looks so much like the watches that came before it, yet so much has changed. Rolex stays true to the Explorer’s DNA in its signature Oyster case, stainless steel construction and compact 36mm diameter. However, through a number of subtle tweaks the 124270 feels like the most robust version in the storied watch’s history.
Let me start off by saying, this is THE best bracelet the Explorer has ever been paired with. This said, the bracelet is the most contentious part of the Rolex Explorer 124270…and there are 2 “issues” we need to talk about.
First, the lug width has decreased to 19mm and this is a good thing! For the first time an Oyster bracelet has been made specifically for the Explorer, not an afterthought that Rolex has thrown on the watch from their bin of spare parts. For all the people who are sad their 20mm straps won’t fit this new watch I say this – the Explorer is meant to be worn on the Oyster bracelet. IF you’re craving something different, there are seemingly endless 19mm straps to choose from these days. Also, all newer Rolex watches have teeth on case in between the lugs that will chew up your existing straps rendering them useless after a couple of uses.
Lastly, the taper…its aggressive sloping from 19mm’s all the way down to 14mm’s, but not as aggressive as it has been made out to be. Don’t get me wrong, it will take some getting used to, but by no means does it look strange or out of place on this watch. Chances are that if this is a watch you are after, you’ve got a small wrist…which means removing links, which means removing the smaller tapering links, which means less taper. The bracelet meets a nicely proportioned 16mm clasp which eliminates a lot of the thinness towards the bottom.
Okay rant over. TLDR the bracelet is good.
Dial
The Rolex Explorer 124270 maintains its sports watch DNA with a highly legible deep black glossy dial, familiar handset and lume filled indices. The dial mimics the previous 36mm text with the word Explorer moved back up to the 12 o’clock, where it rightfully belongs. The most welcomed change from the previous 36mm Explorer is the move from that strange white non luminescent acrylic paint inside the 3, 6 & 9, replacing it with new and improved Chromalight to match the other indices on the dial. I mean, I can’t be the only one who thinks that acrylic paint was weird right?
One subtle feature that goes a long way with the 124270 is the welcomed addition of anti-reflective coating on the underside of the sapphire crystal…saying this was a long time coming is an understatement…but hey, at least they got it right!
Movement
The Rolex Explorer 124270 houses an updated 3230 movement which provides the exceptionally reliable performance one should expect from Rolex. The 3230 has become Rolex’s standard no date movement and is featured in its Oyster Perpetual and No Date Submariner lineups. Since wearing the watch the Explorer has not skipped a beat and is keeping perfect time. I should also mention the extended power reserve of 70 hours, however, the watch actually hasn’t been off the wrist long enough to test that out…I’ll take Rolex’s word for it.
Wearability
Let’s face it the Explorer isn’t for everyone, it’s a watch for a specific person who wants to own and wear a Rolex sports model that either likes to fly under the radar, prefers a smaller sized watches or both. The watch is unassuming and easily earns the GADA stamp of approval (Go Anywhere Do Anything). I believe you’d be hard pressed to find a watch that is more versatile than the Explorer – refined enough to wear on any occasion and tough enough to withstand any adventure.
Verdict
This is a watch that on paper is perfect…and, well, in practice it’s pretty damn perfect also. The only real con is the struggle to get one at MSRP from a Rolex authorized dealer. This is the ultimate go anywhere do anything watch that is sure to be a worthy companion in any situation. The Rolex Explorer 124270 has earned the highest explorer score of all time with 369 adventure points out of 369 adventure points!
Case: 36mm